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Robonova-1 Build Report - continued
LED LIGHT ON THE BOARD:
My kit version of the Robonova-1 came with the
LED already plugged in to the control board. The
instruction manual tells you to remove it from the
control board. A novice builder might try to grab
the LED wires and yank it free of the board. You
must avoid this temptation, as that will surely rip the
wires out of the LED, and leave the plug still
secured to the board. A better way to remove the
LED is to use a pair of tweezers to apply pressure
to the plug itself, rather than the wires. I found it
strange that Hitec had the LED light pre-installed on
the board, because they are just asking for trouble.
My kit version of the Robonova-1 came with the
LED already plugged in to the control board. The
instruction manual tells you to remove it from the
control board. A novice builder might try to grab
the LED wires and yank it free of the board. You
must avoid this temptation, as that will surely rip the
wires out of the LED, and leave the plug still
secured to the board. A better way to remove the
LED is to use a pair of tweezers to apply pressure
to the plug itself, rather than the wires. I found it
strange that Hitec had the LED light pre-installed on
the board, because they are just asking for trouble.
INSTALLING THE HEAD:
It took 1 hour and 20 minutes to install the head on
the robot. This is a really long time considering the
small number of screws involved. One reason it
took so long is that the head is made of light weight
plastic. I found it very difficult to hold the head still,
and position the two screws needed to attach it to
the body. Finally, I had to place an unused
screwdriver into the empty head as a weight to hold
it in place. Then I used the tweezers again to hold
the screw, and my other hand drove the screws
down in the plastic holder.
It took 1 hour and 20 minutes to install the head on
the robot. This is a really long time considering the
small number of screws involved. One reason it
took so long is that the head is made of light weight
plastic. I found it very difficult to hold the head still,
and position the two screws needed to attach it to
the body. Finally, I had to place an unused
screwdriver into the empty head as a weight to hold
it in place. Then I used the tweezers again to hold
the screw, and my other hand drove the screws
down in the plastic holder.
The screwdriver shown is just used as a weight to
hold the head still while my left hand steadied the
screw with tweezers, and my right drove the screw in.
hold the head still while my left hand steadied the
screw with tweezers, and my right drove the screw in.
NECK MISTAKE:
Another reason for the long time it took to install the head was because I made my second mistake. When
screwing the black washer "neck" to the torso, I used the 2x8 screws provided, and screwed them all the way in.
Unfortunately, these screws are too long. When you try to install the head, you end up with a gap between the
neck and head where you can see the screws. So I had to completely disassemble the top shoulder plate to
pull back the neck screws. Then I realized that if I pulled back the neck screws it might cause the whole neck
and head assembly to wobble. As a test, I tried one of the 2x5 screws provided to attach the black chest cover,
and it was just the right size for the neck. But in order to steal one of the 2x5 screws, I had to test that a 2x4
screw could be used in its place to attach the chest. Fortunately, the 2x4 worked in the chest, and the kit
provided extra 2x4 screws. So I used one 2x5 screw originally meant for the chest to hold the neck tight against
the shoulder plate. All of this took a lot of extra time that could have been avoided if Hitec had just provided
2x5 screws for the neck instead of 2x8.
Another reason for the long time it took to install the head was because I made my second mistake. When
screwing the black washer "neck" to the torso, I used the 2x8 screws provided, and screwed them all the way in.
Unfortunately, these screws are too long. When you try to install the head, you end up with a gap between the
neck and head where you can see the screws. So I had to completely disassemble the top shoulder plate to
pull back the neck screws. Then I realized that if I pulled back the neck screws it might cause the whole neck
and head assembly to wobble. As a test, I tried one of the 2x5 screws provided to attach the black chest cover,
and it was just the right size for the neck. But in order to steal one of the 2x5 screws, I had to test that a 2x4
screw could be used in its place to attach the chest. Fortunately, the 2x4 worked in the chest, and the kit
provided extra 2x4 screws. So I used one 2x5 screw originally meant for the chest to hold the neck tight against
the shoulder plate. All of this took a lot of extra time that could have been avoided if Hitec had just provided
2x5 screws for the neck instead of 2x8.
The arrow highlights how bad the gap in the neck looks because the 2x8 screws are
too long. Unfortunately, you have to disassemble a lot just to fix this.
too long. Unfortunately, you have to disassemble a lot just to fix this.
CHEST PLATE:
In order to install the front chest plate you have
to put your screwdriver through the robot's body
from the back. This is a difficult maneuver if you
don't have a screwdriver that is magnetized. One
way to accomplish this would be to hold the robot
in the air and press up with the screw balanced
on the tip of your screwdriver. I found it much
easier to use the tweezers to hold the screw in
the right place and lower the screwdriver from
above. This process only took 10 minutes, but
could have been much longer without the
tweezers.
In order to install the front chest plate you have
to put your screwdriver through the robot's body
from the back. This is a difficult maneuver if you
don't have a screwdriver that is magnetized. One
way to accomplish this would be to hold the robot
in the air and press up with the screw balanced
on the tip of your screwdriver. I found it much
easier to use the tweezers to hold the screw in
the right place and lower the screwdriver from
above. This process only took 10 minutes, but
could have been much longer without the
tweezers.
WIRING AND CABLE CLAMPS:
It took over 1 hour and 40 minutes to connect all
of the servos to the correct place on the control
board and lock down the wires with cable clamps.
This step is very important, so take your time. As
you move along, keep testing the robot's range
of motion to make sure no wires will get pinched
or cut. You also have to make sure the joints
have enough slack in the wire to move freely,
especially at the shoulders and hips.
The internet version of the instructions had
previously indicated which screws to leave off the
robot. Now is the time to add them back while
wiring. I chose not to do this, so unscrewing and
re-screwing took more time, but I think it was
worth the effort to not lose the screws.
It took over 1 hour and 40 minutes to connect all
of the servos to the correct place on the control
board and lock down the wires with cable clamps.
This step is very important, so take your time. As
you move along, keep testing the robot's range
of motion to make sure no wires will get pinched
or cut. You also have to make sure the joints
have enough slack in the wire to move freely,
especially at the shoulders and hips.
The internet version of the instructions had
previously indicated which screws to leave off the
robot. Now is the time to add them back while
wiring. I chose not to do this, so unscrewing and
re-screwing took more time, but I think it was
worth the effort to not lose the screws.
This is the robot's right leg on the out-side
to highlight the cable clamp positions
to highlight the cable clamp positions
CONCLUSION:
Tucking all of the servo wires under the back panel
was a tricky job requiring some trial and error, but the
completed product is worth the effort. The picture
shows all of the cable clamps in place from the rear of
the robot. The final steps of construction are to add
the battery, download the software and connect the
robot to your PC.
The total build time was 12 hours and 48 minutes from
start to finish. The following key points will make
building your Robonova-1 much easier:
Tucking all of the servo wires under the back panel
was a tricky job requiring some trial and error, but the
completed product is worth the effort. The picture
shows all of the cable clamps in place from the rear of
the robot. The final steps of construction are to add
the battery, download the software and connect the
robot to your PC.
The total build time was 12 hours and 48 minutes from
start to finish. The following key points will make
building your Robonova-1 much easier:
- Using the right tools for the job will save you
time. Buy some JIS screwdrivers. It is worth it.
- Follow the pictures in the instructions very
carefully. There are a few small errors in the
manual, but in general they are sufficient.
- Check and re-check the motion of your servos.
Make sure they move the right way, and don't
pinch any servo wires.
- Take your time and have fun!
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NOTE: These robots are not meant for children. All of the humanoid robot models discussed on this website use
powerful servos that can pinch or even crush your fingers if you are not careful. Consult the recommended minimum
age from the manufacturer before allowing children to use any of these robots.
powerful servos that can pinch or even crush your fingers if you are not careful. Consult the recommended minimum
age from the manufacturer before allowing children to use any of these robots.